The Bay of Islands
Northland’s big magnet, the very lovely Bay of Islands, deserves all the praise it gets. White sand beaches shelve off into a turquoise sea that is studded with jewel-like islands. Boat trips take visitors out among the islands to enjoy the scenery and activities such as sailing, dolphin swimming, big game fishing. On shore a trio of historic sites get most of the attention: Waitangi, site of the 19th century Treaty House, the Maori Meeting House and 100ft long war canoe; Russell an historic village born of the whaling frenzy; and further inland, Kerikeri where New Zealand’s oldest European buildings can be viewed.
Whangarei & Surrounds
The regional centre of Whangarei, noted for its clock museum and fine quayside dining, is a popular stop en route north. Just offshore are the Poor Knight Islands, a world class diving site where myriad colourful fish, crabs, kelp forests and soft corals are found amidst an underwater landscape of caves, arches and cliffs. There are many tempting detours to explore the coves and villages along this coast, which is a popular holiday destination for New Zealanders.
Ninety Mile Beach & Cape Reinga
New Zealand’s northernmost accessible point is Cape Reinga, a volcanic outcrop that celebrates the end of Ninety Mile Beach. This superb stretch of sand, backed by colossal dunes, is driven by specially equipped coaches, a thrilling ride through sand and surf following the trail of the ‘spirits’. Legend has it that the departing spirits of the Maori head north along this route and leap from the headland into the ocean. Though barren and exposed, the 165m high cape is a special place, not least for the turbulent meeting of the South Pacific Ocean and Tasman Sea that crash onto the rocks below.
The West Coast of Northland
The theme set by Ninety Mile Beach to the north is repeated along the entire 400 miles of coastline south of Cape Reinga as far as Auckland. But it is impossible to drive the whole west coast because of the two great inlets, known locally as ‘Harbours’ that cut deep into the peninsula. Mangrove fringed Hokianga Harbour, now a quiet backwater, was the scene of important exchanges between Maori and whites, during the early years of European settlement. Great dunes lie north of the inlet, while to the south are remnants of the kauri forests that once covered much of the North Island. New Zealand’s mightiest specimen, 1200 years old Tane Mahuta grows here. Kai Iwi are stunning turquoise dune lakes, which are an unusual bathing spot. South of Dargaville lies the second great inlet, Kaipara Harbour, and one of the region’s most interesting museums, the Matakohe Kauri Museum.
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Northland